Several weeks ago on PBS (Public Broadcasting Service), I saw a delightful program (Mind of a Chef) where David Chang (Momofuku) and René Redzepi cooked together and exchanged ideas on how the taste of raw produce changes with age. Mr. Redzepi is the chef and owner of Noma in Copenhagen, which many consider the best restaurant in the world.
While I have experimented a bit with aged beef, I have never eaten a two-year old potato nor would I have leaped at the opportunity to eat a one-year old carrot. Surprisingly, this is the signature dish at Noma restaurant as shown below:
When you hear Mssrs. Redzepi and Chang talking about what happens when food ages, it makes me feel young again. Mind you, I always felt that older people smelled differently – and perhaps they do. I haven’t started sniffing myself to see if I too am beginning to smell like an antique, but clearly Noma is proving that old and decaying food may still be worth eating. How reassuring.