Carolina Gold Rice from Anson Mills

As GourMay readers are aware, I have been extolling the benefits of heirloom grains from Anson Mills for quite some time. I first came across this lovely company while listening to Sean Brock (Husk Restaurant in Charleston) explain the benefits of dining on naturally produced products. In this fascinating and short clip from the same show (“Mind of a Chef,” narrated by Anthony Bourdain), the history of rice in America is explained.


I relish “real” food with “real” taste and I applaud Glenn Roberts of Anson Mills for bringing back these heirloom grains which make such a difference in our dining experience. I encourage all readers of GourMay to visit the Anson Mills online retail store and experiment yourself with the difference that a grain of rice makes. Good taste never tasted so good!  I realize that Anson Mills does not have the slickest eCommerce website, but do try the Carolina Gold Rice, the grits, the farro (delicious) and the Sea Island red peas.

Bogey Pinson is trying the Polenta di Riso with braised squid and mussels. Found below is the recipe for “Simple Buttered Polenta di Riso,” which is a component of David’s more elaborate dish.

Anson Mills Simple Buttered Polenta di Riso


Description and Getting Prepared

In rice polenta, we see Carolina Gold telescope down into the finest granularity this side of flour, while carrying the unmistakable clean, sweet flavor that bespeaks its lineage. Serve with fish or vegetable stews. For this recipe, you will need a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan (preferably one with flared sides), a wooden spoon, and a whisk.

Anson Mills Polenta di Riso


  • 1 cup (7 ounces) Anson Mills Carolina Gold Polenta di Riso
  • 4 cups spring or filtered water
  • 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 3 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan Reggiano (optional)


Place the polenta and water in a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan (preferably one with flared sides) and stir to combine. Set the pan over medium-high heat and bring to a simmer, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the first starch takes hold, 5 to 8 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, until the grains are soft and hold their shape on a spoon, 10 to 15 minutes. Whisk in the salt, pepper, butter, and Parmesan, if using. Serve hot. (To keep the polenta hot for up to 30 minutes before serving, transfer it to a bowl, cover, and set the bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water. If necessary, thin the polenta with hot water before serving.)

Thanks Glenn for helping to restore “food culture” in America one grain at a time.

Bring on the Pasta

Ever since my knee operation over a year ago, the “good” Sheila has been holding back on the pasta and other carbs to keep my weight in check to aid in the recovery.  Other than fatigue, erectile dysfunction and periods of  deep melancholy and incontinence, I have not had any life-threatening reaction to my “pasta-free” diet.   Some would say that I have become somewhat more irritable, but I think that is caused by aging and spending too much time watching Wolf Blitzer.

Grapevines and Olive BranchesOn occasion of our upcoming trip to Italy, Sheila has decided to make a few pasta dishes to loosen my stomach muscles.  She immediately turned to Nina Rizzo Renda and Leslie May Rodwick’s delightful cookbook, Grapevines and Olive Branches, which has been kept under lock and key for several months.  In this cookbook, Nina shares some family recipes from the Bernardo Winery aided by Leslie’s mouth-watering photography.   If you need a little taste of the old-country and don’t have much time, this is a “must-have” cookbook for every harried home cook that needs to prepare a great meal without a lot of time or a dash to the supermarket.

I would be remiss in stating that this cookbook only contains pasta dishes, but like a starving dog I decided to turn my back on the salads and antipasti bar and leap into some of the delectable pasta recipes.  Furthermore, there are some great entrees , such as, lamb and fava bean stew and that traditional southern Italian favorite “Chicken Cacciatore.”  Among my favorite pasta dishes is penne with pesto sauce shown below:

Penne with Pesto Sauce


  • 1 lb penne or other short pasta
  • 2 cups fresh basil leaves
  • 1/2 cup pignoli nuts (pine nuts), lightly toasted
  • 3 cloves garlic
  • 1/2 cup olive oil
  • 1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
  • 1 Tbs of salt


  1. In a blender, place the basil leaves, pignoli, garlic cloves, olive oil and Parmesan cheese.  Pulse until the pesto is smooth.  (This can be prepared beforehand and preserved).
  2. Bring a large pot of water (4 quarts) to a boil.  Add salt and pasta and cook until the pasta is “al dente” – normally 10 to 12 minutes.
  3. Drain the pasta and coat with the pesto mix until well coated.
  4. Serve immediately.

It doesn’t get much better than this and my “abs of steel” have now been replaced by a rotund bulge more fitting of a patrician in Rome.  Love pasta!

Lidia’s Baked Fregola

FregolaSome months ago we cooked Lidia Bastianich’s baked fregola 0r fregula stufada.  The recipe, reprinted in its entirety below, is not commonly found in the finer restaurants in Italy, but is a real treat for those who like a variety of pasta dishes.  Now fregola can be handmade, but we prefer purchasing Fregola Sarda (see image to the left) when it can be found.  Apparently, cooking with fregola is quite popular in Sardegna and many believe that this toasted durum wheat balls may have been influenced by the Moors of North Africa.  Certainly, they are similar to couscous (sorry for the misspelling, but some readers in Texas want to demonstrate their spelling prowess), but somewhat chewer and – in my opinion – somewhat more flavorful.

If you would like to step out of your comfort zone, I strongly recommend Lidia’s delightful recipe for Baked Fregola.  It accompanies most meats, but is so delicious that you can also serve it as a main course if accompanied by a salad.

 Lidia’s Baked Fregola


  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the baking dish
  • 1 cup onion, chopped
  • 4 ounces pancetta, cut in 1/4-inch dice
  • 1 pint cherry tomatoes
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 2½ tsp kosher salt
  • ¼ teaspoons peperoncino flakes
  • 8 ounces fregola,
  • ½ cup pecorino, grated


Pour the olive oil into a skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. Stir in the onion, and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to soften, about 2 to 3 minutes. Scatter the diced pancetta in the pan, and let it cook and render its fat, stirring occasionally, until it starts to brown, 3 or 4 minutes. Drop in cherry tomatoes and bay leaves, season with the salt and peperoncino, and pour in 1/2 cup water.

Cover the skillet, bring the water to a simmer, then set the cover slightly ajar and cook just until the water evaporates and the tomatoes pop open and release their juices, about 10 minutes. (If the pan dries before the tomatoes pop, add another 1/4 cup water.) Turn off the heat; remove and discard the bay leaves.

Meanwhile, heat 4 quarts of water with 2 teaspoons salt to a rolling boil in a pasta pot. Stir in the fregola, and cook until al dente, about 8 minutes. Empty the pot into a colander or large strainer to catch the fregola. Spill them into the skillet, and stir the pasta, tomatoes, and pancetta together until thoroughly blended. Pick out and discard the bay leaves. Heat the oven to 400 degrees, and brush the bottom and sides of a baking dish with olive oil. Pour all the sauced fregola into the dish, and spread in an even layer. Sprinkle the grated cheese over the top, and set the dish in the oven.

Bake, uncovered, 20 to 25 minutes, until the top is golden brown and crisp on the edges. Serve piping hot. Spoon the fregola into warm bowls as an appetizer, or, to serve family-style, put the baking dish on the table.

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